A Dejeuner Amical at the Tmum Restaurant in Mgarr, Gozo on Sunday the 24th of September 2023
The Malta Bailliage hosted its seventh activity and second Dejeuner Amical of the year at the Tmum Restaurant in Mgarr, Gozo for its members and guests on Sunday the 24th of September 2023.
The restaurant is situated in Mgarr harbour on the sister island of Gozo which is only 25 minutes by ferry from Malta. In view of this our Chancelier Charles Gatt, as in previous years, organised transport from Pembroke to the ferry at Cirkewwa, where the members boarded for the crossing. Although rather windy, the sea was relatively calm and the weather sunny and quite warm.
In his welcome address, our Chancelier Charles Gatt noted that our group was somewhat smaller than last year but this could be attributed to the fact that ten of our members were attending a grand OMGD dinner and wine-tasting event in Izmir Turkey.
However, there were some new faces - Maître Hotelier Alain Rigodin, a member of the Chaine from the Far East who now resides in Malta, and his 3 guests.
Chancelier Gatt then mentioned the recent passing of 2 of our dear members, Jeanine Korfan and Mark Lawson. Messages of condolences were sent to the families on our behalf.
Maitre Rôtisseur Paul Buttigieg welcomed us with one of our favourite tipples, Pol Roger Champagne, and as expected most tasty canapés.
Although we generally procure our choice of wines for our events this time Paul had proposed a full package of food and wines (which had been readily approved by the board).
Finally, Chancelier Gatt reminded us that our next event will also be held in Gozo, at the Ta Frenc restaurant on Sunday 29th October.
The wines were then introduced by our Echanson Dr. Iro Cali Corleo who gave an overview of their characteristics. His comments can be found below accompanying the menu.
MENU
Pre-dinner reception
Canapés
‘The canapés , lamb samosas and tempura prawns were fresh and crispy and came with their respective tsatsiki and soy sauces which complemented them very well’
Aperitif: Reserve Brut Champagne N.V.- Pol Roger
‘This is from a well known traditional style producer, the Reserve Brut is made with roughly equal proportions of Chardonnay which adds elegance P. Noir for structure and strength and P. Meunier. This is a rich and refreshing wine with apple and pear notes.’
Lunch
Amuse Bouche
Chef’s Choice
‘A quaint beef cheek and pecorino tart was served as amouse bouche - fresh and eye-catching, and certainly an appetite-whetting start’
Wine: 'Donnaluce'- Poggio Le Volpe Malvasia, Greco, Chardonnay Monteporzio Catone – Lazio
‘This white wine is slightly off-dry and is typified by notes of ripe tropical fruits typical of warm weather Chardonnay which contrasted the citrus and spice in the dish. It is a well-regarded wine that was awarded 17/20 in 2018 by Jancis Robinson and the 2019 was awarded 90/100 points by Wine Spectator.’
Starter
Torched Lampuki Leche de tigre - citrus gel – pickled onions – chili
‘The starter was a very pretty presentation of lampuki sashimi, lightly seared on the flesh side and set in Leche-de-Tigre, a beautiful and scrumptious emulsion of lime juice, Lemon Drop chillies, and olive oil. A hint of red chili made this irresistibly mopping-up stuff and this was the humble lampuki raised to dizzy heights. The slightly off-dry Donnaluce Poggio Le Volpe was an inspired choice'
Wine: 'Donnaluce'- Poggio Le Volpe Malvasia, Greco, Chardonnay Monteporzio Catone – Lazio
Main Course
Lamb - Roast rack - slow-cooked shoulder ras el hanout - harissa -raita crispy mille feuille potatoes – asparagus
‘Lamb served two ways was the basis of our main course – grilled rack, with chops cooked to pink perfection and shoulder braised in Ras-el-Hanout spice which paired exceptionally well with the Roma Poggio Le Volpe Montepulciano , syrah and Carmenere for blend that was served alongside’
Wine: Roma - Poggio Le Volpe Montepulciano, Syrah and Cesanese Lazio
‘The presence of ras el hanout and harissa in the dish would suggest going for an off-dry low tannin or even sparkling wine rather than a wine with Syrah which usually gives full-bodied and tannic wines. However, the addition of the Montepulciano grape which typically has moderately low acidity and more mild than bitter-edged tannins and also the Cesanese, a rare endemic Lazio varietal, that is even softer and lighter.
Although this wine has been described as rich and intense by critics of Mundus Vini who awarded it a silver, the vintage offered with the dish was medium-bodied at best and the tannins were very mild and it paired well as the spice in the dish was quite muted.’
Dessert
Apple Tarte Tatin - cinnamon ice cream
‘There is apple tarte tatin, and then there is apple tarte tatin, and this was the latter! Soft and tasty and unctuous, and rounded off with homemade cinnamon ice cream – a marriage made in heaven! The Three Bridges botrytis semillion served here may not have been as sweet as a Tokay but held its own with the sweetness of the tarte’
Wine: Three Bridges Botrytis Semillon - Calabria Wines, Semillon - Riverina, Australia
‘Almost no info is available on this wine even on specialist databases. The manufacturer describes it as having notes of pineapple, peaches, and citrus, and considering the grape and the botrytis should be quite sweet. In the past, it was awarded a silver by Decanter. It was in fact quite sweet but well integrated and so not cloying and went well with the dessert.’
Coffee/Tea and Petits Fours
‘Peanut crumble and chocolate truffle petit fours served with coffee rounded off this delightful dejeuner amical’
Chef de Cuisine: Maître Rôtisseur Paul Butigieg
The comments on the food and wine accompanying the menu were prepared by Bailli Délégué Dr, Joseph Xuereb, and Echanson Dr Ramiro Cali-Corleo respectively.
Below is the link to a photo gallery of the event.
Mark Bailey
Charge de Presse
Vive La Chaine!
