Dejeuner Amicale at the Quadro restaurant, Westin Dragonara on Saturday the 2nd June 2024
The Malta Bailliage hosted its third event of 2024, a Dejeuner Amicale at the Quadro restaurant, Westin Dragonara on Saturday the 2nd of June 2024.
This is the introductory speech made by Chancelier Charles Gatt:
‘Good afternoon confreres and consoeurs,
Welcome to our early-summer dejeuner at Quadro. It’s the 3rd time we are using this venue. The first time was way back 12 years ago when we had a Chapitre welcome dinner and of course last year. If this year`s lunch is as good as last year’s we will be more than happy.
Initially, we agreed with the Westin to hold our lunch here last Sunday. However, they later informed us that this place was also booked for an evening event, which meant that we had to vacate the room by 4 pm, which would have been no good for us. We therefore changed this Sunday.
We are 34 members and guests this afternoon, a good number for a dejeuner amical and I believe the long table arrangement enhances the social interaction.
I must say I enjoyed the Ferrari brut and delicious canapes in a casual and pleasant atmosphere.
We have a real summer menu prepared for us by Pietre, the executive. chef and this time our Echanson suggested either white Broglie Derthona or pinot noir with each of the courses being served. It’s your choice.
Iro has informed me that unfortunately, the supplier was let down by delayed import and there is not enough of the dessert wine we planned. Instead, he has chosen El Aziz, Vendemmia Tardiva nv – Bruno Fina (Sicily). He will tell us about the wines in a moment.
There is no formal presentation today but for your information, since the last event, we enrolled a new professional member. He is the General Manager of the Michelin-rated Level 9 Restaurant in Gozo. His enrolment means we now claim four fine dining Michelin-rated Chaine recognised Establishments in our Bailliage, 3 in Gozo, namely Tmun, ta Frenc and Level 9 and one in Malta, the Xara collection group. We need to try to attract other high-level venues in Malta.
Some other news:
Our preparations for the next Chapitre in March are well underway. Just yesterday I received information from Marie Jones, the vice president, that the nominated officiating officer is the Bailli Delegue of Belgium and a member of the Conseil Magistral. (Ilse Duponcheel). No doubt some of us may have met her at some Chaine events overseas.
From a general outline of our Chapitre, Marie Jones has prepared a promotional article for the Chaine news online which will be released next week. So please look out for it. The early release will give overseas members more time to consider coming to Malta for the occasion.
Our next event will be lunch at Tmun in Gozo. We have already received a sumptuous-looking menu from Paul. Please don’t forget the space is restricted and the demand is always high. For those interested I propose to arrange transport from Pembroke Park and Ride to Cirkewwa and return as in previous years. Details will be released soon.
Somebody asked me about new membership cards for this year. Rather than the old yearly issue which required changing every year, we now have a card with a QR code which has all the data and our profile on it. Please check it to make sure your details are correct.
Finally, may I remind you that you can get a free parking ticket from Dragica our Maitre`d after lunch No more from me ladies and gentlemen.
Enjoy your lunch and vive la chaine.’
Following the Chancelier’s speech, Dr Iro Cali-Corleo, our Echanson, discussed the wines to be served with the dinner. His comments can be found below accompanying the menu, along with the comments of out Bailli Dr Joseph Xuereb on the dishes we were served.
Pre-Lunch Reception
Canapés
Cured Salmon, whipped mascarpone, balsamic caviar
(Saumon affiné, mascarpone fouetté, caviar balsamique)
Plum and orange confit duck legs spring roll
(Cuisses de canard confites aux prunes et oranges, rouleau de printemps)
Truffle Scotch egg
(Oeuf écossais à la truffe)
‘Canapés: delightful with great attention to detail. The truffle scotch egg in particular but so were the salmon and balsamic caviar and also the orange and plum confit duck leg spring rolls. The gluten-free alternatives were well received, praised and very much appreciated
Aperitif: Ferrari Brut DOC method classico NV (Trentino)
‘Founded in 1902 by Giulio Ferrari - no relation to Enzo – who since 60yrs ago transferred ownership to the Lunetti family This sparkling wine is a “Champagne” blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It is made following the Metodo Classico resulting in a good perlage with the expected yeast/brioche notes with apple, pear and lemon flavours. It had a crisp lemony freshness yet creamy palate with a decent finish. Average critic score 89 abv 12.5%’
Menu
Wines served concurrently with the Amuse Bouche, Starter and Main
White Wine: Broglia Derthona 2019 (Italy)
‘Made from Timorasso grapes, an ancient Piemontese variety, known to become full-bodied wines with good acidity that take oak ageing well. Notes of tropical white fruit, apple and honey with a good length Critics score: J Robinson 17/20; R. Vecchione 91/100; Decanter 92/100 abv14%’
Red Wine: Cono Sur 20 Barrels Pinot Noir 'limited edition 2018 (Chile)
‘Made from Pinot Noir 100% by Cono Sur who are well known for their quality P.Noir wines. It forms part of the important Chilean house Concha Y Toro. Grapes are hand-harvested and selected, fermented and aged in oak barrels for 14 months then transferred to stainless steel vats for 8 weeks to settle before bottling. Abv 14% On the nose and palate there was tart cherry, oak (toasty/smoky), ripe red berries with good minerality and fresh acidity. Critic score - Tim Atkin 93/100’
Amouse Bouche
Cantaloupe gazpacho, goat foam, pumpkin seeds powder
(Gaspacho de cantaloup, mousse de chèvre, poudre de graines de citrouille)
'Amouse bouche: a delicate version of gazpacho and an inventive play between the sweetish melon and the savoury goat cheese.'
Starter
Pigeon Breast - Cherry and elderflower consommé, foie gras, salt ba, celeriac purée, croissant, slow Gin jus
(Magret de Pigeon - Consommé de cerises et fleurs de sureau, foie gr
purée de céleri-rave au sel, croissant, jus de prunelle au gin)
'We admired the attention to detail in the starter course, with the perfectly cooked pigeon breast and the fine foie gras cream served on warm plates which only enhanced the aromas and flavours further.'
Main
Sea bass with scallop mousse, dill crust, white asparagus, kumquat cous
Hollandaise sauce
(Bar à la mousse de Saint-Jacques, croûte d'aneth, asperges blanche
couscous de kumquat, sauce hollandaise)
'Deviating from the traditional sequence, we were served a delightful fish course for mains, excellently poached sea bass and asparagus enhanced with a fine scallop mousse and an innovative kumquat couscous - brilliant!'
Dessert
Lemon posset, yuzu compote, dark chocolate soil
(Posset au citron, compotée de yuzu, terreau de chocolat noir)
'Dessert was a perfect reproduction of a lemon, once broken revealing an incredible contrast between the acidity of the citrus and the earthiness of the dark chocolate.'
Wine: El Aziz, Vendemmia Tardiva NV - Bruno Fina (Sicily)
‘A youngish house, less than 20 years old, but working for more than 20 years with the most famous wine maker in Italian modern enology, Giacomo Tachis. It is a late harvest wine made from Grillo grape. Grapes are hand harvested after they have dried on the vine. On the nose and palate there was a balanced sweetness with notes of apricots and honey abv 14%’
Coffee/Tea and Petite Fours
Wine Supplier: M&Z Wines
Chef de Cuisine: Piotr Czajkowicz
After dinner, our Bailli Dr Joseph Xuereb made the following comments on the dinner (besides the comments above regarding the different courses).
'We had a lovely selection of highly rated wines and hats off to our Echanson for the meticulous research and sourcing of these.
The communal table arrangement is unique to Quadro and is very conducive to the warm camaraderie that is the trademark of La Chaine.
This sequence must have presented a challenge to our Echanson but hats off to Iro for the excellently researched wines, with red and white served together to satisfy all of us.
Chef Piotr has been at Quadro for over four years and has regaled us with his cuisine on previous occasions. Compliments to him and his brigade not only for this but also for expertly dealing with all our allergies, intolerances, and even whims!
Thank you also to Maître d’ Dragica and her team for impeccable service.’
Mark Bailey
Charge de Presse
Vive La Chaine!
As usual below is a link to the photo album of the event:
