Chaîne des Rôtisseurs

The Malta Bailliage hosted its seventh event of the year, a Dejeuner Amical, at the Ta Frenc Restaurant in Gozo on Sunday the 29^{th  of} October 2023. Many members take the opportunity to attend the Opera at the Teatru Astra and stay for a long weekend. It was even more of a special occasion for our Bailliage as we had been given a special dispensation by Paris to perform a mini–Induction Ceremony.

Below is the introductory speech made by Chancelier Charles Gatt:

“Confreres and Consoeurs, good afternoon and welcome to our yearly visit or pilgrimage to one of our favourite restaurants, Ta Frenc, a Michelin rated restaurant.

I believe one can refer to Ta Frenc as the premier Chaîne recognised establishment in the Maltese Islands as it boasts two directors as Maître Restaurateur and two Maître Rôtisseurs.

Last year our Ta Frenc dejeuner was much curtailed as the pandemic still made many members cautious.  We were just 17 and had our event in the fantastic wine cellar downstairs.  Those of you who have not seen the cellar I`m sure the staff will let you have a peep.  Today we are back more or less to the usual level of attendance.

We have special congratulations today as our Bailli Joseph and Elsie Xuereb became grandparents for the second time a few days ago.

We have a special occasion this morning to take care of.

Two of our members who missed the Chapitre last October due to very valid reasons will today be inducted by our own Bailli Délégué in his capacity as a Member of the Conseil Magistral.  A special dispensation was given by Paris for us to perform a mini–Induction Ceremony.

As well as 2 persons to be inducted, another will receive an award.   They are Maître Restaurateur Joseph Tabone, Dame de la Chaine Simone Busuttil and Commandeur Frank Galea.

This induction must follow the same procedure as an official Chapitre (the ceremony proceedings are detailed below).

We also welcome today a new member to our bailliage – Maitre Hôtelier Honoraire Alain Rigodin.

Alain has served in the catering industry as Hotel Manager for many years and in many countries. He joined the Chaine in 1988 and was intronised in Gabon, then moved to Kuala Lumpur and South Korea (the bailliage national where I was myself inducted). Tthen he moved to Osaka, Beijing and finally Indonesia.  So it is not a surprise that transferring from country to country got his membership truly mixed up.  Now that Alain has retired and is living in Malta we welcome him as our member.

We also welcome Alain`s 4 guests.

Back to the gourmet side of the proceedings, the Boizel aperitif and canapés were exotic and as expected of Ta Frenc, the menu is so teasing that we cannot wait to start the lunch.

Perhaps our Echanson can brief us on the wines proposed by Ta Frenc.

Enjoy the lunch and Vive la Chaine.”

Below please see a summary of the ceremony, which was presided over by Dr Joseph Xuereb, our Bailli Délégué, in his capacity as a Member of the Conseil Magistral.

LIVRE D`OR

Cérémonie des Intronisations

Chapitre ȧ Xaghra  – Gozo

29/10/2023

Maître de cérémonie:  Dr. joseph Xuereb

Out reçu officiellement les insignes de leur grade, après avoir prété le serment des Rotissuers

The Bailli Dr Joseph Xuereb declared the Chapitre open and all attending guests and members were asked to stand.

The Chancelier called Joseph Tabone and Simone Busuttil to the front.

First there was the compulsory oath of allegiance which is taken by new members.

• I PLEDGE THAT AS A MEMBER OF THE CHAINE DES ROTISSEURS
• I WILL AT ALL TIMES HONOUR THE ART OF CUISINE AND THE CULTURE OF THE TABLE
• I PLEDGE TO ALWAYS FULFIL MY OBLIGATIONS OF FRATERNITY AND OF RESPECT FOR MY FELLOW MEMBERS OF THE CHAINE DES ROTISSEURS

Following the pledge Chancelier Charles Gatt gave the Bailli a ribbon to place on each inductee’s shoulder.

Swords were handed to both the inductee and the Baili. The former held the sword in their right hand, pointing to the floor while the Bailli then placed his sword on the inductee`s left shoulder:

To M Joseph Tabone the Bailli made the following declaration:

MONSIEUR – AVANT ENTERDU VOTRE SERMENT, AU NOM DU CONSEIL MAGISTRAL SE VOUS CONSACRE COME MAITRE RESTAURATEUR DU BAILLIAGE DE MALTE

While to M Simone Busuttil he said this declaration:

MADAME – AVANT ENTERDU VOTRE SERMENT, AU NOM DU CONSEIL MAGISTRAL SE VOUS CONSACRE COME DAME DE LA CHAINE DU BAILLIAGE DE MALTE

Then the Chancelier called M. Frank Galea forward to receive the official Commandeur Silver Certificate and medal from the Baili.

Finally, All the were asked to sign the Livre D`Or after which the Bailli thanked all present and closed the Chapitre.

Following the introductory speech by the Chancelier and Intronisation ceremony the wines were then introduced by our Echanson Dr. Iro Cali Corleo who gave an overview of their characteristics. His comments can be found below accompanying the menu.

MENU

Pre-lunch reception

Sélection de Canapés

Aperitif: Boizel Brut Reserve Champagne NV

‘Produced by a 6^th Gen family run winery  in Epernay.  This Brut Reserve is their core wine.  It is a blend of Pinot Noir Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay.  Tasting notes: Light on the nose and palate, with good acidity and notes of apples dominate’.

Lunch

'Salade' de Courgettes (Zucchini Salad)

Courgettes grillées chaudes, noisettes, fromage de brebis local, biscottes de pain

(Hot grilled zucchini, hazelnuts, local sheep cheese, rusk)

‘As we sat down, we were presented with a tempting courgette and local goats’ cheese amouse, which elevated these humble ingredients to a culinary delight. This was perfectly complemented with an off-dry but crisp Roero Arneis’

Wine: Roero Arneis 2021 – Viette

‘Viette is a Piemonte producer.  The head winemaker, Alfredo Corrado, is known as the father of Arneis because it was he that triggered interest in this grape variety.  All vintages from 2015 onwards have had very good reviews.  Tasting: This wine was unoaked, with both floral and citrus notes on the nose and predominantly citrus on the palate’.

Consommé

Champignon pleurote grillé, pommes de terreconfites, lardo, consommé de poulet et champignons

(Grilled oyster mushroom, candied potatoes, lardo, chicken and mushroom parfait)

‘The chicken and mushroom consommé was very delicate and again beautifully paired with Boizel Blanc de noirs, for me, an inspired choice’

Champagne: Champagne Blanc de Noirs – Boizel

‘The same house as the aperitif but this wine is from 100% P.Noir. It is richer and weightier than the Brut Reserve. Tasting:  significant dark fruit flavours, with some yeast and oak notes’.

Risotto

Risotto aux palourdes, purée d'herbes, crème à l'ail, anchois marinés, citron, poutargue

(Clam risotto, herb purée, garlic cream, marinated anchovies, lemon, bottarga)

‘The seafood risotto was the highlight of my lunch, a delightful, delicately herbed melange of clams, marinated anchovies, and bottarga. This was beautifully presented and executed to a ’t’. The accompaniment here was one of the world’s great white wines, Condrieu, whose finesse and elegance did absolute justice to this veritable piece’ de resistance!’

Wine: Condrieu 2018 - E. Guigal

‘This is made by one of the most notable producers in the Cotes du Rhone region.  Made with 100% Viogner.  Last 20 years has been consistently good even if there were no exceptional vintages.  Tasting : Flavours of pale stone fruit and citrus with crisp acidity and some residual sweetness’.

Caille (Quail)

Ballotine de caille, cigare croustillant, panais, oignon carbonisé, purée de pommes de terre, jus infusé au raisin

(Quail ballotine, crispy cigar, parsnip, charred onion, mashed potatoes, grape-infused juice)

‘Quail is one of my favourite dishes. This was tasty, elegantly presented, and generous. Another inspired pairing: the earthiness of a mature Santenay Clos de Malte, a Pinot noir, going ever so nicely with the quail’s gaminess’

Wine: Santenay Clos de Malte 2014 - Louis Jadot

‘This house is one of most important producers and negociants in Burgundy. Wine is made with 100% Pinot Noir.  The quality has been consistent over the years with no notable vintages.  Tasting : predominantly red berry fruits with a good structure demonstrating minerality, soft tannins and a crisp acidity’.

Pré-dessert

Grenade, Gin rose, Citron vert

(Pomegranate, Pink Gin, Lime)

Poire (Pear)

Poires caramélisées, crème à la vanille, miettes de cardamome, beignet chaud, poivre du Sichuan

(Caramelized pears, vanilla cream, cardamom crumbs, hot donut, Sichuan pepper)

‘A light palate cleanser led the way to dessert, another delight - light in its own way, attractive to behold and tantalising on the taste buds. The 1998 Hugel reisling has become a ‘Grand Dame’ and lost a tad of its fruit, becoming less of an accompaniment to our sweet but a grand way of closing this exceptional lunch’

Wine: Riesling 'Selection de Grains Nobles' 1998 - Hugel

‘Based in Alsace.  Family owned vineyards for 400 years.  Established as Hugel & fils in 1902.  This vintage highly regarded (96 Points - Parker) -  It has reached its peak and indifferently stored would have started its decline – fortunately Ta Frenc has ensured correct storage in their cellar.  Tasting Notes: Bright golden colour.  Intense nose with floral, yellow plums, apricots and candied orange notes.  Very sweet on the palate but it had enough bright acidity to contrast it.  Very long finish’.

Finally, here are the comments of our Bailli Dr Joseph Xuereb in his closing speech:

‘Welcome to ta Frenc, to what I feel is our second home. As always, we were welcomed with the beautiful house champagne, Boizel and some carefully crafted canapés in the beautiful surroundings of the garden.

This lovely turnout is testament to how much we hold this restaurant in high esteem.

This was a beautifully crafted and well thought out menu with a distinct autumnal feel despite the persisting summer weather outside - the only thing Ta Frenc couldn’t organise today was a howling wind!

A big Thank You to restaurant director Joseph Tabone, food and beverage manager Eric Gauci and his brigade and chef Joseph Brincat and the kitchen brigade’.

In his speech the Baili also commented on and praised each individual course. His remarks accompany the menu and tasting notes written by the Echanson Dr Iro Cali Corleo.

And finally, here is the link to the photo album: