A Patronal Dinner at the Marriott Hotel in St. Julians, Malta, on Saturday, the 6th December 2025
The Malta Bailliage hosted its sixth and final event of 2025, a Patronal Dinner, at the Marriott Hotel in St. Julians, Malta, on Saturday, the 6th December 2025.
This is our Chancelier Charles Gatt's welcome speech. Sadly, it was his last speech in the role of Chancelier/Argentier as he has decided to retire after being in this roll for over 20 years.
Listening to the speech, we did so with gratitude and respect — mindful that it marked the conclusion of a remarkable period of service involving a great amount of time, thought, and effort devoted to the office of Chancelier and Argentier. Charles leaves this role with our sincere thanks and appreciation, and with the knowledge that he has served our Bailliage with distinction, strengthening it through his dedication, reliability, and many years of voluntary service.
’Confreres and Consoeurs and Guests,
Good evening and welcome to this year`s final event, the Patronal dinner in honour of St. Nicholas, the Patron Saint of the Chaȋne des Rôtisseurs, whose feast falls exactly on this day, the 6th December. St. Nicholas was a 4th century bishop. He was declared the patron saint of our fraternity by King Louis IX of France (later Saint Louis) in the 13th century. St. Nicholas is also the patron saint of children, sailors, merchants, pawnbrokers, prisoners and others.
Once again, we're at the Marriott, previously Le Meridien Hotel, where we held our last Young Chef of the Year competition in 2016. Since then, the hotel has undergone a major reorganisation and changes in senior staff, including the new General Manager, Alex Incorvaja; Events Director, Neville Xuereb; Culinary Director, Roderick Vella, who participated in the young chef competition; and Executive Chef, Matthew Bonsfield. From our discussions with the GM and his team in preparation for this event, it is clear that management is keen to strongly reconnect with our bailliage.
We have 60 diners this evening, after last-minute additions and cancellations, a good number considering it`s so close to Xmas and some members have other personal festive arrangements.
The pre-dinner reception, which we consider to be a very important part of our programme, enables us to mingle with fellow members and meet new or prospective members and guests. Today`s reception was very enjoyable indeed. The Brazilian premium sparkling wine Miolo Millesime aperitif was a treat, as were the delicious canapes.
Chefs Roderich and Matthew have proposed an exciting menu for this evening, and we hope it will be as delicious as it reads.
The wines, as usual, were paired and procured by our Echanson, who will give us a short briefing on his selection.
As this is my last welcome speech after almost 20 years in the role of Chancelier and Argentier, permit me to add a few general remarks.
I feel rather sad that I am retiring from the roles, but the time is right to pass on the torch to let someone else have their turn. When the Malta bailliage was first sponsored by the Bavarian Bailliage and installed in 1981, demand for membership, particularly from members of the catering industry, was very strong and remained so for a long time. However, by the time we decided to reorganise the bailliage twenty years ago, the membership had dwindled to just a handful. Due to the determination and effort of the newly formed Council, the membership gradually increased to the healthy level it enjoys today. So, a big thank you to the Council (now called the Board of Administration to conform to headquarters terminology), who have actively contributed to the bailliage's well-being.
In recognition, I wish to add a few personal acknowledgements
.
Our Bailli Joseph has considerably improved our profile throughout the Chaine organisation, having been raised to a Member of the Conseil Magistral and representing us at a good number of Chapitres overseas. He has always been there to provide guidance and to discuss matters with me, often on his way home in the car or on the Gozo ferry, after a long day at his surgery.
Bernd Ritschel, our Conseiller Gastronomique, has always been available to accompany me to many venues to organise events. He is one of the longest-serving members of the bailliage.
You have seen for yourself our Chargé de Presse, Mark Bailey, running around taking photos during receptions and dinners, often missing out on the aperitif and the canapes, although by now he has become an expert at carrying the glass and the camera at the same time. Mark is also our webmaster.
Our Echanson Iro pairs and procures the wines for our dinners. He always comes up trumps with his choices and religiously carries out research to brief us on the chosen wines.
Very recently, we lost our Conseiller Culinaire Marc Besançon, who left the Board due to his personal workload. He held the role even before the reorganisation of the bailliage. Marc has always been our first port of call for assessing menu proposals, as he is a top-quality chef himself.
Following me, from the end of this year, we can call it the AC era, the helm of the Chancelier will be in the hands of Alain Rigodin, a well-experienced person in the culinary and catering industry, having been a chef in his younger days and later General Manager at hotels in various countries.
As advised at the last AGM, my role as Argentier will pass on to Ruben Galea, who is very experienced in dealing with financial management.
I shall, of course, continue to support the bailliage and the Board when called upon.
Finally, ladies and gentlemen, Maureen and I wish you all a Happy Xmas and a Healthy New Year. Enjoy the dinner and VIVE A CHAINE.’
As is the custom, following the Chancelier's introductory speech, our Echanson, Dr. Iro Cali Corleo, introduced the wines and gave an overview of their characteristics. His comments are below, accompanying the menu.
Pre-Dinner Reception
Selected Canapés
Sélection de Canapés
Aperitif: Aperitif - Miolo Millésime Brut 2020 ABV 12% Critics Aggregate 90/100
This winery was founded by Giuseppe Miolo in Brazil in 1897. it is a D.O. produced only in exceptional years. The grapes used are 40% Chardonnay and 60% Pinot Noir, all from the family’s vineyards. Manual harvest and selection and after fermentation it is aged for 18 months in temperature-controlled underground cellars. On the nose there are aromas of apples, almonds and toast. On the palate, it feels medium-bodied and balanced with flavours of citrus, apples and pear finishing with a nice length’ (ICC)
Menu
To Start
Cured Grouper, Asparagus Gel and Marinated, Dill Emulsion Caviar, Infused Cream
Mérou en Saumure, Gélee d'Asperges Marinées,, Emulsion d'Aneth, Créme Infusé au Caviar
Wine: Umani Ronchi Plenio Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva 2022 ABV 13% Critics Aggregate 93/100
‘The Bianchi-Bernetti family founded the estate in 1959. They specialized in Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Rosso Conero. This wine takes ageing well, in fact it has just entered its drinking window and should be good for another 10 years. Hand harvested, soft pressed then rapidly cooled followed by fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks (60%) and in 5000 litre oak casks (40%). It is aged for 12 months on its lees followed by 6 months in bottle.
On the nose it is complex with ripe stone fruit, mangoes and hints of pastry crust and cream. On the palate it is medium bodied with a balanced acidity and fruit ending in a lingering finish.’(ICC)
Grains
Pumpkin and Ricotta Caramelle, Almond Praline, Black Garlic, Pumpkin Cream, Ginger Foam
Caramelle au Potiron et au Ricotta, Praliné aux Amandes, All Noir, Crème de Potiron, Ecume de Gingembre
Wine: Umani Ronchi Plenio Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva 2022 ABV 13% Critics Aggregate 93/100
The Main Affair
Sous Vide Beef Short Rib, Oxtail Farce, Charred Shallots, Puffed Amaranth, Pea puree, Layered Potato and Smoked Bone Marrow Jus
Bout de Côte Cuite Sous Vide, Farce de Queue de Boeuf, échalotes, Amarante Soufflée, Purée de Petits Pois, Couche de Pomme de Terre, Jus d'Os à Moelle Fumé
Wine: The Main Affair - Post Scriptum 2021 ABV 90/100 14% Critics Aggregate 90+/100
‘This is the second wine of Prats & Symington's Chryseia. Prats & Symington is a partnership since 1999 between the Symington family and Bruno Prats (former owner of Chateau Cos d'Estournel). This wine is a Touriga Nacional dominant blend with Touriga Franca and the exact portions of each grape depends on the vintage. The wine is given up to 15 months barrel-aging on 100-percent French oak.
On the nose, there are violets, blackberries, black cherries and pepper, while on the palate, there is a medium to full body with firm tannins, soft acidity and plenty of black and red berry flavours ending in a medium-long finish.’ (ICC)
Study in Chocolate
Salted Caramel Dark Chocolate Tart, Yuzu and Milk Chocolate
Mousse, Caramelised White Chocolate and Hazelnut Ice Cream,
Blood Orange Sauce
Tarte au Chocolat Noir Salé, Mousse au Chocolat au Lait Parfumée
au Yuzu, Glace au Chocolat Blanc et aux Noisettes Caramelisées,
Coulis d'Orange Sanguine
Wine: El Candado Pedro Ximénez (Valdespino) ABV 17% Critics Aggregate 94/100
Bodega Valdespino is one of the oldest bodegas in Jérez, originating in 1264 and still maintaining the traditional methods of wine making. The solera for El Candado was taken over by Valdespino in 1972. It is a fairly simple solera of four stages and the bottled wine is around 8 years old.
Pedro Ximénez is made from over-ripe grapes that are sun-dried to obtain a grape juice with an exceptionally high concentration of sugar. Its ageing process, which is exclusively oxidative, gives the wine a progressive aromatic concentration and greater complexity.
On the nose there are raisins and spices while on the palate there is significant fruit sweetness with notes of figs, honey, spices and caramel Long finish.’ (ICC)
Cheese Board
Chevre Royale Sandwich, Peach Jam, Pecorino and Stilton
Fourré au Chèvre Royal, Confiture de Pêche, Pecorino et Stilton
Wine: El Candado Pedro Ximénez (Valdespino) ABV 17% Critics Aggregate 94/100
Coffee and Petite Fours
Wine Suppliers: Farsons Direct
Chef de Cuisine: Matthew Bonsfield
Culinary Director: M. Roderick Vella
At the end of the evening, Dr Xuereb, our Baillie, made the following comments — an entertaining journey through the dinner in which the letter "D" was a recurrent theme!
‘Dessert today was called ‘A Study in Chocolate’.
I thought today’s menu was more like a ‘Thesis in the Letter “D''.
The canapés were Delightful, very well thought out and meticulously prepared.
Our starter was Delicate, the grouper cured to perfection and married well to the asparagus and the fantastic dill emulsion, although some members found it too salty .
Then we had the grains course, possibly my favourite one of the evening - caramelle made with loving Dedication with a pumpkin and ricotta filling, complemented with ginger and black garlic - Delicious.
The Main, a gorgeous melange of meaty flavours and textures, combining the tender short ribs with oxtail farce’ and bone marrow jus was nothing short of Decadent.
Which brings us to the Dessert, a symphony of chocolate concoctions diced with hazelnut ice cream and a chocolate and gold leaf wafer - Dark and Divine!.
This Dazzling dinner was brought to a close with a selection of cheese of which the Stilton stood out, at once Devilish and Dream-inducing.
And then the wine pairing - Decisions taken by our Echanson, positively Dionysian!!.
I can’t not mention the service, both the kitchen and the white brigades, which I can only describe as Determined and Dedicated."
Joseph Xuereb
Apart from the venue being rather cold at the beginning, rather erratic wine serving and that some dishes were served on cold plates, the overall feeling was that the event was a very successful one.
As usual, below is a link to a photo album of the event.
