Diner Gastronomique at the Tartarun Restaurant Marsaxlokk on Saturday the 28th of February 2026
The Malta Bailliage hosted its first event of 2026, a Diner Gastronomique, at the Tartarun Restaurant in Marsaxlokk, Malta, on Saturday, the 28th February 2026.
This is the welcome speech of Monsieur Alain Rigodin, his first as the new Chancelier of the Malta Bailliage.
"Confreres and Consoeurs, very good evening, and welcome to Tartarun, for our first dinner of 2026. Tartarun is owned by 2 talented twin brothers, Stephen and James Schiavone, well supported by their mum Rina.
Following some great feedback from venues like Tmun and TaFrenc, the board has been searching for new restaurants. We were therefore very happy when Stephen and James accepted the challenge of hosting our “2026 Diner Gastronomique” for the Chaine here at Tartarun. And to share a little story, I learned that actually Tartarun restaurant was named after a specific type of Maltese fishing net used here in the Marsaxlokk area.
With 43 of us in attendance here tonight, the restaurant is at full capacity, and my only regret is not being able to welcome more diners, including guests of some of our members, present tonight.
I hope you all enjoyed the welcome cocktail, and I will leave it to our dear Echanson, Iro, to share his feedback and expertise on the Champagne and the wines to be served. But before we start, I would like to share with you some information:
The 2026 Calendar has been posted on the Bailliage website with our next event, a Dejeuner at Tmun to be held on the 17th of May.
We are looking for 2 or possibly 3 more venues.
The 2026 AGM has been set for Wednesday, 15 April. An email will be sent soon.
And now, I would like to invite our Bailli Joseph to formally welcome 4 new members to the Chaine, here present this evening. Please help us welcome 3 new “Dame de la Chaine”: Audrey Hubbers, Tetiana Verhun, Anna Blazhko, and a new “Chevalier”, Martin Haemmer.
Can I just finish by reminding you that, as per the Chaine’s guidelines, there is no salt & pepper on tables; please put your phone in silent mode and toast the Chaine, from left to right, as soon as the first wine is served at the table.
Thank you, everyone. Enjoy your dinner! Vive la Chaine! "
Pre-Dinner Reception
Selection of Canapés
The welcome cocktail was handled very well, with sufficient space, and we got some great comments about the Canapes (mini tartlet and mini brioche) and the Champagne. The Tarlant is an excellent Champagne, probably new for most (interesting blends), not served in a regular flute was a plus, as our Echanson, Iro, mentioned (AR).
Aperitif: Tarlant “Zéro” Brut Nature NV, Champagne, France
Tarlant is a family-owned and run house, particularly associated with Brut Nature (zero dosage) wines, but otherwise follows traditional as well as organic practices. The house has existed since 1687 and is one of the first 10 houses established after the establishment of the Champagne AOC in 1927. The twelfth generation of the family is currently at the helm. This particular champagne is produced from 33% pinot noir, 34% chardonnay and 33% pinot meunier.
Immediately noticeable is the fine perlage, still very present even though served in tulip shaped wine glasses – a much-favoured practice nowadays. On the nose, there were aromas of fresh sourdough, walnuts and apples. On the palate, it was full-bodied with good citrus acidity and again apples, pears and yeasty flavour notes ending with good length. Average Critics rating is 90/100 (ICC).
Menu
Appetizer
Red Prawn Tartare Ponzu, Ginger Condiment, Bearnaise Sauce and Prawn Toast
The appetiser was well-presented, colourful, and exciting to the eye, and the flavours of the tartar were well-balanced with the creative toast served alongside, adding some crispiness. The crisp Riesling with some strong notes of tree fruits was an excellent fit.(AR).
Wine: Nikolaihof Riesling 2023 - Wachau, Austria
This is one of Austria's oldest wine estates with wine being produced there dating back almost 2000 years to Roman times and having the first written records of winemaking at the estate dated to 470 AD. The Saahs family has owned the estate since 1894 and they have run it using biodynamic practices since 1970. They are best known for their wines made from Riesling and Grüner Veltliner.
On the nose one notes aromas of white peach and lemon. On the palate it is medium to light bodied with lots of minerality, lemon acidity and white fruit flavours ending with a clean finish. Average Critics rating is 91/100 (ICC).
First Course
Lobster Ravioli Vadouvan, Black Garlic and Lobster Jus
The lobster ravioli was prepared and cooked to perfection (not easy for so many people), generous both in size and flavours, enhancing the palate with the rich lobster jus (AR).
Wine: Inama “Foscarino” Soave Classico 2023 - Veneto, Italy
This house was founded in the 1950s by Giuseppe Inama but released its first wine in the 1990s. Their first commercial wine was not a Soave Classico, but a Sauvignon Blanc, as at the time Soave had a very poor reputation because most producers were pushing quantity rather than quality and so Inama decided to produce quality wines made from international varieties instead. However, he also bought some of Soave Classico's oldest and most notable Garganega vineyards with the aim of producing quality Soave as represented by this wine.
It was quite intense on the nose, with flinty notes followed by yellow fruit aromas, peach comes to mind. It was very balanced on the palate, with a fresh acidity and again yellow fruit flavours. Average Critics rating is 93/100 (ICC).
Second Course
Snapper and Scallop en Croute, Cauliflower, Morteau Sausage and Mandorla Clam Sauce.
The snapper was well portioned, again perfectly cooked. The smokiness of the distinct Morteau sausage did not overpower the dish and enhanced it instead. It was a well-thought-out and balanced dish. An excellent fit with the full-bodied white from Provence with a long and spicy finish (AR).
Wine: Château Simone Palette Blanc 2020 - Provence, France
This house has been owned by the Rougier family since 1830, and cultivates approximately half of the vineyards in the small appellation of Palette. They practice traditional vinification techniques with the grapes harvested and sorted by hand, followed by light crushing, straining and gentle pressing in a vertical hydraulic press, before they are fermented on their native yeasts in temperature-controlled conditions and then aged in small oak casks for 18 months, with 6 of them on their fine lees.
This wine is made from 80% Clairette, 10% Grenache Blanc, 6% Ugni Blanc, 2% Muscat and 2% Bourboulenc.
On the nose it gave aromas of nuts, oranges and pears while on the palate, it is full bodied, buttery with honey, marzipan and spices ending in a long and spicy finish. This to me was one of the most interesting and notable wines of the event. Average Critics rating is 93/100 (ICC).
Main Course
Medium Rare USDA Prime sirloin, Spinach, Périgord Truffle, Lardo and Madeira Jus
The sirloin got some mixed reviews. For some, the premium cut was tender and well executed, but for others, they felt the meat was too tough, hard to cut (a steak knife would have helped), and thus not really delivering on the expectation of such a high-quality cut. Yet the meat was tasty and flavourful with a nice presentation and generously served with black truffles. The jus was a class in its own, well-reduced, powerful to the palate.
Wine: Inama “Bradisismo” 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon / Carmenère - Colli Berici, Veneto, Italy
A good representative of the wines produced from international varieties by Inama, this time a Bordeaux style blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Carménère and 9% Cabernet Franc.
After harvesting, the grapes are gently destemming without crushing, followed by 2 days of cold maceration and then fermentation (malolactic) in stainless steel with selected yeasts after which it is filtered and aged in a mixture of new and used oak barrels for 15 months.
On the nose the expected aromas of blackberries and cherries as well as crushed red and blue flowers, cedar and mixed spices. On the palate, the flavours were bold and typical of red fruits with a balance of tannin, acidity and savoury elements. This is a wine that can age. Average Critics rating is 92/100 (ICC)
Dessert
Caramelized White Chocolate Parfait Mandarin and Salted Peanut Praline Ice Cream
The dessert was well-presented, light, and with an excellent home-made ice cream, and well paired with the Santorini sweet wine (AR).
Wine: Estate Argyros Vin Santo 2016 - Santorini, Greece
This wine estate was founded by Georgios Argyros in 1903, who started making local wines using traditional Santorinian methods and growing native grape varieties like Assyrtico, Athiri and Aidani The vineyards are planted on volcanic soils and cover 26 hectares at altitudes from 35m to 150m above sea level. The vines are cultivated in the traditional basket style, called "kouloura" which shelters the grapes from Santorini's strong winds.
Grapes are sun dried for ten days then they are fermented on their native yeasts in old cement vats at 250C for more than 8 months permitting the fermentation to stop naturally. The wine is then aged for three years in these cement vats, followed by four years in exhausted French oak barriques and also in 300 lt, 500 lt, and in 50+ year old 1250 lt and 1350 lt barrels.
On the nose, one finds aromas of orange peel, sandalwood, peaches, vanilla and apricot jam. On the palate, it is quite sweet however sufficient ageing in barrel and bottle has just started to permit the right balance of sweetness, fruit and spice. It ends with a good length. Average Critics rating is 93/100 (ICC)
Coffee, Tea and a Petite Four
Wine Suppliers: Tartarun
Chef and Owner: James Schiavone
Restaurant Owner : Stephen Schiavone
Here are some other comments made by members of the committee regarding the dinner:
'We would like to express our heartfelt thanks to Stephen and his brigade for their warm, attentive and flawless service throughout the evening, and to James and his kitchen brigade for the care, skill and tremendous effort that went into producing such an excellent dinner. It is also only right to acknowledge their mother, Rina, who founded the restaurant and whose vision and spirit clearly continue to guide this family-run establishment today. Our sincere thanks also go to M Ruben Galea on behalf of Axia Holdings Limited for generously sponsoring the flowers and candles that added so much to the atmosphere, and to Mme Anna Blazhko for the care she took in preparing and arranging them. (Dr Joseph Xuereb)'
'We want Tartarun to know how happy our members with dietary requirements were with the way these special diets were accommodated. They are very appreciative of that. The smiling service staff did an excellent job, well-trained, and they all need to be recognised for their efforts and hard work.
In conclusion, the entire evening was thoroughly enjoyable, with our members well impressed by this first Chaine event held at Tartarun (M. Alain Rigodin)'
‘This is the first time in recent history that we had 6 wines to try out at a Chaine dinner, and one must complement the venue, and their sommelier, of course, for their ability to pair the wines so well with the dishes they accompanied. Two of the wines in particular, the Champagne and the Chateau Simone, were completely new to all of us, and so besides being enjoyable, were also very interesting and worth further exploration of both houses (Dr Iro Cali Corleo).’
As usual, below is a link to a photo album of the event
Dr Mark A Bailey
Charge de Presse
